At long last, my exhilarating experience as a Queen Elizabeth Scholar (QES) has come to an end. This is not to say farewell, but rather to extend a goodbye until next time. So much has been experienced, and so many lessons have been learned over this summer.
Dr. Peter Ndaa and I working away on data analysis
The last few weeks in Ghana were spent between Accra and Kumasi where I was completing my doctoral field research, wrapping up the first few drafts of data analysis for some academic papers that the QES team is writing to disseminate research findings on inclusive education in Ghana, all while recovering from a negative reaction to something I had eaten. More than anything, Ghana has taught me about resilience and patience in myriad ways!
Cultural Engagement
While in Ghana, I wanted to experience life as some of the locals live so I selected three areas of focus to tackle: 1) transportation, 2) food, and 3) attire.
The infamous VIP Bus Travel
VIP Bus, VIP Bus Tickets
When embarking on long treks across Ghana, many Ghanaians resort to taking a “VIP” bus for its cheap fare. At the start of the ride a pastor walks up and down the aisles preaching a message before praying for a safe journey for the passengers.
Inside VIP Bus While Pastor Was Preaching and Praying Before Takeoff
I didn't realize until later that he collected an 'offering' (donations). It had been 2 years since I had taken a VIP bus (since air travel is much quicker), so I had originally thought that he was the driver and marvelled at Ghanaian culture for including prayer in everyday life activities before my research assistant shared how it was a pastor. I learned that several pastors go from bus to bus minutes before departure to preach, pray and then depart. My bus left at 5 am on a Thursday so that truly is a commitment-haha. What an interesting culture!
Inside VIP Bus
As the bus drove on, I marvelled at the stunning scenery of lush vegetation and misty mountains which reminded me so much of Sigourney Weaver's depiction of Dian Fossey in the Gorillas in the Mist movie. When we reached our stop in Ejisu- the hometown of the revolutionary Queen Mother Yaa Asantewaa who bravely led the Asante army in the last battle against the British before Ghana became colonized in what is now named “The Yaa Asantewaa War”, I found it very interesting that a few passengers momentarily exited the bus with us to 'do their business' on the side of the road since we were no where near any washroom facilities. Toto this isn't Kansas-hahaha.
Gorillas in the Mist, IMDB
I travelled with my research assistant Amanda to Kumasi because the most important research demographic for my doctoral dissertation is my Matrilineal family Elders. My research adapts Rachel Ama Asa Engmann's Autoarchaeology theory for the purpose of the archeological digging of family history to make sense of larger socio-cultural issues and phenomena to enact social change surrounding domestic violence prevention. Within Autoarchaeology, the researcher holds three positions as researcher, practitioner and direct descendent of the population that they are analysing. This is one reason why the Queen Elizabeth Scholarship (QES) is so beneficial to my research since I needed to travel to Ghana one last time to complete my field research with my Matrilineal Elders and some Cultural Historians. I am deeply grateful to the QES team (i.e. Dr. Heather Aldersey, Tom Collier etc.) for the opportunity to do so!
These Ghanaian "Tro Tro" Vans (In a sense, Canada's version of OC Transpo) often display messages about God on the back doors
So much can be said about the roads in Ghana. My mother always taught me that if you have nothing good to say then don’t say anything at all-hahaha! Keeping in tandem with that childhood lesson, let’s just say that if you are looking for entertainment in Ghana, look no further than the streets of Accra. People are bold in Ghana! Talk about living on the edge–they take it to a new level! As a famous Ghanaian Youtuber Kwadwo Sheldon would say- it's "mind borsting"! (I believe this is the Ghanaian pidgin equivalent to mind bursting). You will find many people walking unfazed across the highway as cars are speeding by-I am so grateful that I never witnessed a collision!
Some of the uber (bolt) drivers in Ghana can compel a lapsed disciple to become very devout in prayer! On one trip alone I counted 3 near accidents. I found it easier to just close my eyes rather than monitor the driving performance. Dorothy, Kansas! Hahaha! Ironically I did end up watching half of the Wizard of Oz on a weekend, hence my constant references to Toto, Kansas and now Dorothy!
More Tro Tro Fun! I admit that I wasn't brave enough to ride in one, but I saw many Tro Tros across Accra and Kumasi
African Clothing
I love this photo! I was wondering whether my picture was being taken. Evidently, it was, haha!
I bought this dress in Kumasi at the "European market" after I visited the Kumasi Cultural Centre. I was drawn to the Anne of Green Gables Puffed Sleeves Ghana-style. Who knew the beloved Canadian novel-turned television series would come alive in Ghana! It's a nation of surprises- I tell ya!
Megan Follows as Anne Shirley in Anne of Green Gables Miniseries, Book Riot
Dr. Ndaa and I had a cultural attire day at the office which was very fun! I am so grateful to Doc or as we call him the "Commander-in-Chief". He was such a great support to me throughout the QES program. Thanks for everything Doc!
Dr. Peter kept teasing me that I came to Ghana to try different braiding hairstyles haha. Although this was the most "African" style yet!
Food
I am obligated to pause to thank my Parents, Aunty Rose, His Excellency Uncle Daniel, Uncle David, Aunty Cynthia, and Cousin Kwame for introducing me to authentic Ghanaian foods that I was too shy to try before! While these dishes were delicious, of course I also appreciated the North American-style meals shared with my husband and brother-in-law Frank when they arrived near the end of my trip. Again, I must emphasize how thankful I am to have such a great support system that helped me navigate culture shock and home sickness!
Rice and Stew with Fried Plantain is a cheap, easy to make meal
Kotoimire (Spinach) Stew with Boiled Plantain, Beans and Egg remains a popular and delicious dish!
Really Good Pasta!
Truffle Fries and Waakye (pronounced "Waaw-chey") Bites. I learned from my husband that "Waakye" means mixture. Traditional Waakye is a mixture of rice, beans, noodles, salad, egg, gari (crumbled cassava), and shito (hot sauce). However, since I don't eat street food (on advice from my doctor in Canada who suggested that I shouldn't eat street food since it may not agree with my palate), my husband took me to a fancy rooftop restaurant named "Sky Bar 25" so that I could finally taste this popular dish that he loves!
What "real" Waakye looks like, Travel Atlas Foods
Kumasi Cultural Centre
Visiting the Kumasi Cultural Centre was a highlight during my trips to Kumasi. While we were not allowed to take photos within the museum, I had a wonderful time within this culturally rich location learning more about my cultural heritage (Asante history).
Photos from Prempeh Jubilee Museum (Outskirts)
It was a joy to learn about Asante-Ghanaian women's pre-colonial power as Queen Mothers who transformed their families and communities. It was more meaningful to learn this history or 'herstory' as I have been teaching my Uncle Daniel, about Ghanaian women as I stood on the same soil that they once stood on. There is a stark difference between the ethos of Accra and Kumasi-the slower pace and peace within the Ashanti region of the Asante peoples in Kumasi is quite refreshing!
Our tour guide gave us some drumming lessons and pop quizzes on Asante history throughout the tour. What a memorable experience!
Despite the minor episodes of 'discomfort' that I experienced over the summer in Ghana, I learned alot of lessons regarding "first world problems". I spoke about resilience in the first blog and how troubling it was for me to drive past certain areas around Korlebu. The longer that I stayed in Ghana, the more I found myself in so many instances pausing in shock as I encountered various children, elders, pregnant women, mothers with young children on their backs, toddlers, young men, those without legs sitting on 'makeshift scooters' and using their hands to move their bodies along highways and streets as they panhandled or sold their wares all over highways.
Editing Data Analysis Writeup & Watching 'Studytube' in the Background
So many times I would find myself at a loss for words. Struggling with emotions, I felt so helpless. And in truth I felt bad that in the moments of discomfort, I had the assurance that I would be returning home to Canada again. Then on the other hand, there were times when I was in establishments where 'foreigners' congregate and it felt like I was in Canada again. But that illusion quickly dissipated whenever I went on the highways and saw the 'hustle' of Ghanaians fighting to survive in a difficult economy. However, I met and encountered so many people who are actively making a difference to improve people’s lives, and for that I am both grateful and encouraged.
Reading about Inclusion Education Policies in Ghana on University of Ghana Campus
Ghana has challenged me to not take my life for granted. I find that too often, especially within academia, the pressure to produce and perform within ‘grind culture’ makes us lose sight of our love of knowledge accumulation, research methodologies and new intellectual discoveries which led us into the academy in the first place. Ghana has taught me to pause more and smell the proverbial roses, reflect and acknowledge the good things in my life, the various milestones achieved, and the joy of the mystery of the future “next”. In sum, life truly is a gift, and for those of us who allow “first world problems” to overshadow the privileges that we take for granted in daily life that I was forced to acknowledge in Ghana (i.e. electricity, running water, access to North American food etc.), we truly should be more intentional in our daily lives to be thankful! Stress truly is life depleting, and I am resolved now more than ever to no longer allow it to hinder me from enjoying the various privileges that I am afforded in Canada and at Queen's University.
Dr. Ndaa challenged me to examine the inclusion of Ghanaian women who live with disability who are vulnerable to domestic violence, and it has enriched my analysis. I am grateful for my QES experience in helping me to become a better scholar, a more seasoned global citizen, and a more intentional Canadian with Ghanaian heritage. While the QES journey has now ended, my journey with Ghana is ongoing. This is not farewell, but until next time. You may encounter me on a different platform in the future, but the journey continues with Ghana. Cheers to the future and thank you dearly for your support throughout my journey reader friends!
At Kotoka Airport
#QESGhana2024
